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Matterhorn

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July- August

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Like every summer season I am in Zermatt for a few weeks. You just have to tell me where and when you want to go and I will arrange the rest – the tour – alpine huts – conditions – and sometimes even the weather.

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Information about the Matterhorn

 

Season: July and August till mid September

Time: ↑ 4-6 h / ↓ 4 h

Return trip Hörnli hut – summit – Hörnli hut: approximately 8 – 9 h

Difficulty: UIAA grade III (spots), often II, mostly I (also on the descent)

Meeting point: 18:00 at the Hörnli hut, the day before the climb

 

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Description:

The Matterhorn is not an extremely difficult mountain, but you should be in good shape and well prepared to go to the top. Beside some rock climbing ability you should be able to move in easy scrambling terrain up and down, also with crampons on. And of course acclimatisation is the key to success. For a good climb up the Matterhorn you should summit some 4000 m peaks around Zermatt before hand. Very important: – spending two nights above 3000 m, climbing minimum one peak over 4000 m and then you spend one night in the valley in Zermatt before you go up to the Hörnli hut is the way to do it. Because of safety reasons I guide only one guest up the Matterhorn.

 

This itinerary guaranteed a 100% success rate till now:

1. day Gandegghütte

2. day Gandegghütte – Halbe Breithorntraverse – Rif. d’Ayas

3. day Rif. d’Ayas – Castor – Pollux – Kl. Matterhorn – Zermatt

4. day ascent to Hörnlihütte

5. day Matterhorn summit day – Zermatt

 

 

Spaghettitour:

 

Time: 3 – 5 days, up to 8 h daily

Difficulty: High alpine tour and traverse on big glaciers, Dufourspitze up to UIAA grade II – III

Meeting point: 8:00 in Zermatt at the cable car up to the Kl. Matterhorn

 

Description:

The „Spaghetti Tour“ got it’s name from the huts on the Italian side of the Monte Rosa. Every day for dinner you will be asked the same question – pasta or soup for starters? The Spaghetti Tour is a technically easy high alpine traverse. You can climb up to 11 summits over 4000 m in height. For experienced climbers the tour can be expanded by climbing the Liskamm traverse and the Dufourspitze, with 4636 m the highest mountain of Switzerland. On the trip you will stay one night on the highest hut in the Alps – the Capanna Margharita at 4556 m. The view is breathtaking and in clear nights you can see the citys of Milano and Turino as well as Mont Blanc and Lago Maggiore during day time.

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One possible itinerary:

1. day Zermatt – Breithorn – Pollux – Rif d’Ayas

2. day Rif d’Ayas – Castor – Rif. Sella

3. day Rif. Sella – Naso – Vincentpyramide – Balmenhorn – Rif. Mantova

4. day Rif. Mantova – Schwarzenstein – Ludwigshöhe – Parrotspitze –                         Signalkuppe (Rif. Margharita)

5. day Rif. Margharita – Zumsteinspitze – Monte Rosa Hütte – Zermatt

 

 

 

More 4000m peaks I can recommend in the area:

  • Zinalrothorn – Weisshorn
  • Dent Blanche
  • Obergabelhorn – Arben ridge
  • Breithorn traverse
  • Dom – Festiridge
  • Rimpfischhorn
  • Täschhorn
  • Weissmies
  • Allalinhorn
  • Nadel-ridge
  • 4000 m peaks around Saas Fee, incl. Fia Ferrata Jägihorn
  • and many more

 

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Since the tours, duration of the tours and amount of people are very variable, the guide fees are upon request.

Just give me a call, or write me an e-mail to guide@treksandtours.at and I will arrange it all.

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